Notes from a (v.) Small Island:

Tuvalu is not the Congo, the Sudan or Bangladesh, this country is not at the brink of civil war, there is no tyranny, no one is dying of starvation and there seems little evidence of dire poverty. On the contrary Tuvalu is a country that seems to be a functioning, joyous tiny hub of civilisation in the middle of a gigantic ocean. There is a well respected government, a university, a primary and secondary school, a handful of shops, the houses are of moderate build, there are motorbikes in their plenty and the 4*4 in their pretentious few, the people are unassuming, kind and welcoming.
So what, I thought in my first few days here: is all the fuss about?
As I walked the palmed streets soaked form the relentless storm I wondered; was this notion of ‘Climate Change Refugees’ just another disconcerting First world discourse, projected on the developing nations in an attempt to deter the problem away form themselves and enforce a status of victimhood?

But as with most things, as I clearly discover one should not judge a situation from the on set.
The situation here in Funafuit (the capital island of Tuvalu) is a complex one. There are of course huge environmental changes. However linked with more pressing socio-economic issues such a dangerously high cases of diabetes due to bad diet, rising STD’s, over-population, major lack of agriculture; the shift in weather conditions, the rising sea, and the coral bleaching, are not the immediate concern of many of the inhabitants here. Though they are most defiantly linked.
I will try to explain as best I can what I have learnt, and why the situation here is precarious.
During the WWII the Americans dug up large parts of the island of Funafuti. They used this ‘earth’ to fill out the centre of the island to build a runway in their fight against the Japanese. As a result, large pits called the ‘taisala’s’ have been left. As the island is so low, they are filled with sea water from the ground and consequently increase and decrease according to the tides. It is these that often flood. Over the years they have been filled with large amounts of rubbish; they are dumping grounds for everything from old cars, Tv’s, plastic, non-compostable and organic waste; they are in effect open landfill sites. There is no recycling system in Tuvalu, let alone a system for waste. It’s a question of dump it or burn it.

Due to the over crowding on Funafuti, a result of the smaller outer islands of Tuvalu becoming uninhabitable and people coming in search of jobs and better livelihood, people have built all around the Taisalas and on top of them. The standard of living in these areas in not good, and above all it is through polluted water that many tropical diseases spread. What people here need is earth/soil/land to fill these pits and bury the rubbish. Therefore making room for more people to move out to either end of the island away from the crowed centre.
As for agriculture it is pretty non-existent. To begin with the soil is poor and salty as the sea is rising from underneath as well as from the shore. Secondly the young generation do not care much for the arduous labour that it is needed to grow the root vegetable the pulaka that is native to this land; ‘maggie’ noodles it seems are a more appealing alternative. Thirdly there is a system here of landownership that does not help the situation. Every family in Tuvalu owns land. Ancestral land that is passed on through the male line. This land could be on any of the nine islands of Tuvalu. ( bear in mind that some of these islands are 350 miles away form Funafuti) However the vast majority of Tuvaluans live on the island of Funafuti which is owned, by a small minority. What this means is that the most people rent, and because they rent they can not dig up the land to grow vegetables and do as they please. So the country imports all its food, except of course for fish, pigs, (lots of pigs) and chickens. Tins of corned beef is defiantly a fav!
Once a month the Island experiences its highest tide. These are called King Tides. On average the island’s tide is 2.9m from low to high tide. However when it is the King Tides it can reach to 3.5m and it is these that come over the low banks, on to the road and into the gardens and houses. It is these tides that come up form underneath the ground too, a strange notion to get your head round. (We are expecting a King Tide very soon so ill try and take some photos so that you can see what I mean.)
To give you an example of the width of the island the house were I stay, from my room out one window I have Ocean at a few metres away and the other side of the room the lagoon. So you can image you do not need much for it to flood.
From the people I have spoken with so far, and this ranges from children to Pastors, shopkeepers, to teachers there is a definite mixture of opinion to the impending change this island will encounter. The majority of people of the island are Christian, and a large number of them believe strongly in the story of Noah. After the Great Flood, God promised Noah that there would never be another flood. They make the direct link with this promise in the Bible, and the survival of their country.
They do not deny the sea is rising but they hold such faith in their belief, that Climate Change poses no ‘real’ threat.
Then there are people who are aware, very aware and are trying very hard to get this across to the rest of the world.
The main group for Climate Change is called Tuvalu Climate Action Network, (TCUN), and this consists of a range of ‘important’ island people such as; the head of the Red Cross, and Director of environment, etc. One of them is Gilliane Le Gaillic, a fantastic and opinionated French women who has set up ‘Alofa Tuvalu: Small Is Beautiful’. It is an organisation to assist the Tuvaluans to survive as a nation and remain on ancestral land. They have a 10 year detailed plan that addresses air, waste, energy, water and erosion. They also did a film called, ‘Trouble in Paradise’. Through she has a major dislike for the fair weather journalists and filmmakers (there is a different filmcrew here each week,) she has thankfully taken me under her wing and is guiding me about.
The president of this committee, Reverend Tafue who sits on the World Council of Churches, and represents Tuvalu at many UN conferences on CC is my host. (He is arriving in a few day as has been in Bonn in Germany since I have been here, so I am yet to meet him.)
I have spent most of my time listening. Listening and figuring out slowly what is the opinion of this island. My focus is ‘young people’. I have began conducting my interviews which I include a few, and will up load all of them as I go. I really believe that these young people hold an awful lot of power right now; as the world becomes conscious of the future. They simply need to feel confident in asking for what they deserve and consequently need people to listen to them.
To ask a 12 year old what he would say if he could to the government of the UK, is great fun and as you can see the responses are touching.
A paper has come out this week saying that it may only be 30 years before the Arctic melts, not 60. The ominous future is bleak, the information confusing and the evidence sometimes not always blatantly apparent.
As I am engulfed by the howling winds, the attacking rain and the tempestuous frenzy of the Ocean I sense that our earth is not happy, I do feel however, that we have some time still, to at least act in the countries where we are from, to reduce the culprit that is causing all this rage.

At least we know that by doing this we are harming no one!